Paris wakes up with AMI and its timeless chic fashion

The third day of the AMI Paris men’s shows closed with a sober and elegant collection. The audience of stars among others, Juliette Binoche, Isabelle Adjani and Vincent Cassel, was as attractive as the cabin, very successful, especially with the actresses Diane Kruger, Lou Doillon and Laetitia Casta. For autumn-winter 2024/25, designer Alexandre Mattiussi returns to its basics, highlighting its tailoring side more than ever, delivering its ideal timeless menswear.

This is revealed in the dawn that is still in the darkness, when the City of Light emerges from its torpor in the early morning. A frozen moment, when the revelers are returning to bed, they pass the first workers who are already on their way, walking on the asphalt with that jerky and fast rhythm so typical of Parisians. As a bell tolls in the distance and traffic begins to roar, the models hit the road with a firm and flashy step, in shoes with thick, ridged soles for men or high-heeled ankle boots with large stripes for women.

They step out into the darkness from the porch of a beautiful stone mansion, with the windows still lit. We are far from the time when the brand celebrated the romantic and bohemian Paris, with its galvanized roofs and street lamps… Everything seems a bit stricter. Starting with a palette, predominantly dark, based on black, brown and grey, radically different from the previous collection. Beautiful midnight blue sets also run through the collection.

Alexandre Mattiussi returns to true tailoring with a host of jackets, suits and suits. Gabardine and thick wool coats fit flawlessly. Pleated trousers are sublime. They leave the jackets aside huge in recent seasons to find more elegant proportions, either in fitted models or blazers. All pieces are exquisitely cut. The stylist even allowed himself to introduce a new length of pants, which made them shorter.

For women, it brings the current culotte skirt that is offered in a suit, which is also worn by Monsieur. For a more chic side, coats and jackets are decorated with gold buttons. But when the stylist moves a little away from this classic universe, for example with sweaters with fur or covering the sleeves of raincoats with artificial fur, the result is less convincing.

A subtly glamorous touch is added to the collection with a few rhinestone tops and this gold lamé dress that shines under a coat. But it was precisely with a simple classic coat tied at the waist with a wide belt, with rounded shoulders, gently falling and enveloping, that he decided to conclude his Alexandre Mattiussi show. It is worn by Laetitia Casta, her hair loose, her hands in her pockets. One last round and she closes the heavy wooden door of the house behind her.